HUAN DEE

Arriving home from work, I was told the husband of my host grandmother's sister had died earlier in the day. Preparations were being made to go to the "Huan Dee" and I was invited to go along. "Huan Dee" translates literally as good home and is used in reference to the home of the dead.

Upon arriving at the home, we removed our shoes at the door and then found a place on a woven mat on the floor. In an alcove by the door was the wooden casket placed under a frame wrapped with coloured paper and shrouded with white drapery. Flashing coloured "Christmas" lights hung from the frame. On top of the casket was a picture of the 78 year old grandfather.

During the evening we prepared flower arrangements to decorate the casket and alcove. Incence burned in a container of sand close to a large white candle. A home made wooden cross was propped against the wall reminding us of the dates of the grandfather's birth and death.

Throughout the evening relatives and friends arrived to show their sympathy. Each arrived with a gift of rice and money, and often candles, incense or flowers, placed together in a silver container. After offering their gift they reclaimed their container.

As close relatives arrived, they tied a strip of white cotton cloth around their forehead or in their hair to identify themselves as family members. I was told this is the custom of the Thai Deng people, one of the many cultural groups in Lao PDR.

Later in the evening a relative and lay person of the Catholic church conducted a mass with those present at the Huan Dee.

When the last daughter of the grandfather arrived the lid of the casket was lifted for the final time. The tobacco that covered the body was removed from his face and one by one his children came and wiped his face with a white cloth dipped in fresh coconut water. Coconut water is used for its purity. Once this ritual was completed, the wooden lid was replaced, sealed and nailed shut.

We returned home but many remained through the night. As I left, I wondered what stories would be told of this 78 year old Catholic rice farmer whose family had survived the hardships of many years of war.

It was an honour to participate in this sacred community ritual.